May 27-30 2011
This is the long story about how we took our six kids out in the desert to camp with no campground and hiked up a treacherous canyon on purpose.
Several weeks ago, I found myself excitedly saying "yes" to an invitation to go camping at Goblin Valley. After all, hadn't camping been one of my most cherished childhood experiences? I didn't think twice when my friend said the words "primitive" and "no campground". At least not that day.
But the week leading up to the campout led me to think twice and twice more. No water? No TOILETS??? Food for over 3 days? Our little minivan with no camper or trailer?
I was nervous.
I was stressed.
It was even hard for me to be nice at times.
Where to begin? For a couple of days, I felt like I was in a daze, wandering around thinking of all that had to be done. I finally sat down and started a list. It took me a couple of days and about 7 sheets of loose leaf to make the list.
Thursday: Have kids pack their bags. Get as much of the food and cooking supplies gathered as possible. Change some diapers and wash some faces before our "family activity" for the week: Getting a Porta-Potty. Since we were going to be out in the Provo/Orem area, we had a few other errands to run as well. Nathan needed BSA clothing for his upcoming Timberline Scout Training Camp. We also needed some more coolers, and hiking shoes for the boys, and something more rugged for Sarajoy to wear than boutique squeaky shoes. We also needed some grocery store items.
We picked up Dallin from work and got on our way. We knew time was limited because the Scout Shop closed at 5:30. As we were driving through Provo, we thought it might be a good idea to stop at DI to see if they had any of the stuff we needed. We only go there about twice a year because it is pretty far away. Somehow the time limitation slipped my mind when I heard DI. I love a good browse there. We found some pants that would work for "backup" for Nathan, but we knew he needed at least one "official" pair, and they didn't have any. But we found coolers, some tables to use for cooking and toiletries, very nice hiking boots for both the boys, some crocs and tennis shoes for Sarajoy, several other little odds and ends, and a strange-looking doll that Sarajoy wouldn't leave the store without. (I talked them down to fifty cents for that, and it turned out to be very worth it for her to have a toy that I didn't mind getting dragged around in the dirt.) At one point I heard a store clerk say, "It's almost 5:00", and I panicked. We rushed over and found the shoes we needed and quickly checked out and got in the car. It was 5:18 when we pulled out. We were pretty sure we wouldn't make it, but decided to try anyway since the Luggable Loo store was right next to the Scout Office. I ran into the Scout Office at 5:32. They pulled the metal gate down behind me. They were very kind and understanding as we picked out the socks, belt, and pants Nathan would need. Phew!
We went over to Emergency Essentials and discovered it was a corporate office, but they directed us back to Provo to the store.
Emergency Essentials turned out the be the kind of store that Dallin actually likes. He spent quite awhile discussing water filtration while I found our potty, chased my little ones between storage bins, changed a diaper, and tried not to go crazy.
By then, everyone was starving. We found a Little Ceasars and everyone ate pizza while I ran into Sam's Club and got a few things.
Then it was Wal Mart for the rest of the groceries and a Leatherman for Brandon for earning his Arrow of Light.
Then Macey's for dry ice and a candy bars for Brandon's progress on his math facts.
It was quite late when we got home, and everyone was a bit cranky from driving around and shopping so much.
And I still had all of the cooking to do. I had decided to cook as much as possible because it would make things easier there as well as take up less room in the coolers. Nathan stayed up with me and helped make the 3 breakfasts. Dallin stayed up and helped me pack food and get our own suitcases packed.
Friday: Our goal was to meet our friends at 12:30. I fed the kids and filled the coolers. We started loading the car. I was hoping the car-top carrier would hold the sleeping bags and suitcases. It was jam packed with just the sleeping bags and air mattress. I was thinking about how much camping is like moving, and wondering why we were doing this on purpose. Then we loaded the back to the top. I put the camp chairs in the side windows and at the kids' feet in the back seat. I was feeling really great about how well everything was fitting. Dallin reminded me we hadn't put the 2 tents in, or the camp stove. But we managed those plus the propane tank and the 5 gallon water jug and a bucket of sand toys and some pillows and blankets. No leg room, but we were thankful. We got on our way with a stop for ice for our friends and a stop at the Library to drop off some movies.
For the first time in a week, I felt calm and relaxed. I knew that for at least the next 3 and a half hours I would be off the hook. We were on our way!
Not quite an hour into the trip, our car gave a little warning bell and the brake light went on.
Seriously?
We had had our power steering system replaced just days ago.
We were in one of the most dangerous canyons in the US.
Could we really risk taking this fully overloaded van the rest of the way with a potential brake hazard?
No.
We pulled over and talked about our options. Dallin checked the brake fluid and it looked fine.
Someone went potty and we all got back in the car and prayed.
We prayed that we would know what to do. We prayed that if it was His will, he would make our brakes work until after our trip.
We felt good about going on.
30 minutes later we were filling up in Wellington. The brake light went off!
I read my book, ocassionally looking up at the magnificent geological wonders that Utah has to offer. I can tell why they call it Castle Country. It is incredible.
It took us an hour and a half to find a campsite. We knew we were going to be dealing with crowds on a holiday weekend.
Finally, we found a little cove at the base of a formation. We were hoping it would offer some shade and protection from the wind.
Setting up camp was pretty fun. A lot like playing house! We set up our old, smaller tent to use as a dressing room/toilet area. All of our luggage and toiletries were in there. And the Luggable Loo, of course!
Our big tent had room for the air mattress in the center, the sleeping bags for 4 kids on one end, and the porta-crib and Simon's sleeping bag in the other end. I also set up our kitchen table and food prep area in that end. Thanks to our friends' trailer, we were able to bring our nice picnic table.
The wind was pretty harsh that evening. It would be calm for awhile, and then huge gusts would come up, leaving a fine layer of dust on everything and in your eyes.
It was after dark when we finally ate our tin-foil dinners. I think they would have been better off in a pot. I've yet to have a great tin-foil dinner experience. That might be our last. Just waiting for the coals to be ready takes so long.
Nobody complained about going to bed except Simon. I guess the little nap he had in the car and all the excitement about playing with flashlights made it hard for him to go to sleep. Dallin and I were sitting out by the campfire with my friend when we heard a commotion in our tent. Simon started crying, and then we heard Ruby say, "Simon's under the tent." Dallin said, "No he's not." She said, "Yes he is, and I can't get him." We ran over there, and, sure enough, Dallin pulled Simon out from under the tent where he had been burrowing around. Apparently he had turned off his flashlight and gotten scared and come looking for us. When he realized how dark it was outside, he decided to go back in the tent. He couldn't find the opening so he crawled under, thinking it was where the zipper was open. We calmed him down and got him settled and after some more visiting time, Dallin and I settled onto our air mattress.
Then the wind picked up. It would blow around and make it sound like one of the kids was stirring in their sleeping bag. That is the exact sound that brings this mama right out of sleep. It seemed like just as I would drift off, either the wind would pick up or Sarajoy would wake and need comfort.
Still, it was better than most nights camping where I am either too hot or too cold and always afraid of critters. That's one good thing about the desert. No bear would ever survive out there.
Saturday morning, I stayed in bed awhile while the kids gradually got up and went out to play. The cove we were in was surrounded by rock cliffs, with odd formations at the bottom. The older kids were able to climb clear up to the top. From camp it didn't look so bad, but as we were driving away and I saw what they were actually playing on, it made me a little nervous. Even the 6 year olds got up there eventually, and the kids were showing other campers how to get up there.
I warmed up some water for hot chocolate and warmed up our potato, egg, and bacon breakfast that we had cooked. The morning was calm, and it was a nice break from the wind.
It took me a long time to wash dishes after breakfast. I only brought two large frying pans, so I'd have to fill them and warm them and pour them in and then fill and warm them again.
I kind of like those experiences that are more primitive. I like learning to make do and be pioneerish. And compared to the pioneers, I had some pretty incredible luxuries and conveniences on that trip.
One of the best things about it was that I could enjoy the cooking and cleaning because there wasn't something else to move on to. The kids were playing happily outside, and I had no idea what time it was.
After we got cleaned up, we went into Goblin Valley State Park to the Valley of Goblins. It was awesome! A giant playground of rock formations. The kids had lots of fun. Our friends found a geocache in there. We played until everyone was too hot and tired to do any more. We went back to camp, and it was hot! I made the mistake of opening all of the screens in our tent to cool it down. When we came back later that day, there were drifts of sand on everything in the tent. We put a tarp over the eating area, but it didn't last long in the wind. We decided to take the 45 minute trip to the nearest town to get some ice for the coolers and some ice cream for the kids. It was a nice break from the elements, and a beautiful drive. When we got back, we made dinner and just visited around the fire while it cooked in the dutch oven. After eating some delicious pork burritos my friend made, we went back to the Valley of Goblins to play games.
When we first got there, it was nice that we were one of the only groups there. Earlier in the day had been very packed with visitors. The wind was horrible, however. I was wondering if it was even going to be worth it because the little ones were so miserable and crying from the dust in their eyes. After we walked all the way to the edge of the valley, we realized we were getting short on time as we had to be out of there by 10pm. We started back toward the parking lot and found a nice cluster of formations to play a round of Vampire on. It was a lot of fun. We did that one more time and the youngest kids were having a rough time, so the moms took them back to the cars so the dads could play with the big kids.
It is great that our families are so nicely matched. Their oldest is a girl, but she gets along well with Nathan and Brandon, and all of the other kids are the right age and gender for each other. Sarajoy just loves her friend and went around for most of the trip calling her name. They were so cute in the Valley of Goblins. There are rocks there that even they can climb on and tunnels to go through. They would take off together, and in minutes be quite a ways from the rest of the group in their own little happy world. That was one of the happiest things for me on this trip, seeing those two little girls enjoying each other.
That night, the kids were all eager to get into bed, and Dallin went with them. I stayed up and visited with my friend for quite awhile before going to bed. The wind that night was incessant, and much stronger than the night before. It was hard to eat breakfast without getting a mouth full of grit. We had planned to do a little Sacrament Meeting that day, and I was really looking forward to it. We wanted to explore the Little Wildhorse Canyon as well. We found out from the ranger that we should do it in the morning as they were expecting very strong winds and possible rainfall that afternoon. You don't want to be in that kind of canyon when it rains, so we decided to do the hike first and come back for Sunday service.
We were having a rough go of it from the beginning of the hike. Sarajoy had fallen asleep in the car on the way to the trailhead. Simon kicked her in the head when he was getting out of the car, and she was MAD. She did NOT want to get into the baby backpack, and Simon insisted that he DID want to get in. I had Nathan carry the extra baby backpack that was full of snacks and drinks, and I gave Simon a short piggy-back ride. I really needed him to walk, though. He was not excited about it at all. He was tired and grumpy. He and I stayed back from the group a little and I tried to make things fun for him. We went into the little caves and sang "The big brown bear" and he would jump up and scare me. Then we pretended we were in Jungle Book and I helped him climb a couple of trees. Then we played rock jumping. I would hold his hand and he would run up a rock and jump off the other side. When we caught up to the group, he was starting to get used to the idea of what we were doing. Nathan was having a tough time with the pack, so I took it for him. The trail got very narrow and difficult at times. There was a lot of climbing up and over rocks and feeling wedged between two rock cliffs. I thought it was awesome! I was so glad the kids were having this experience. There were places where the canyon opened up and we could sit and rest or have a snack. There were places with muddy water on the trail. Daisy was throwing a fit because she didn't want to get wet. Simon was all about getting in that muddy red water. Soup, he called it. You could get across the wet places by stepping on stones or scooting along the walls if you knew how. The youngest kids were too scared, so I ended up getting in up to my shins and ferrying the kids across. Having wet shoes made it a little more difficult to climb the rocks, but I was okay. I could tell my body was getting a workout like it had never had before, though. Even down in the slot canyon, the wind could be really horrible. Simon would cry that someone was throwing "pokes" at him. We did not make it to the top of the canyon, though we made it pretty far. It got to where the canyon opened up enough that it was hot and windy so we decided to go back down. This was interesting on a busy day. People would have to climb the wall and make a bridge for others to pass under. It reminded me of climbing the hall walls at home, only much narrower. There were parts where it was narrow enough that the sides of my backpack were scraping along the wall. Going down seemed really hard on my ankles and knees. I was still with Simon. We had pretended to be snakes going through the narrows. Now, on the way down, he was a motorcycle. He was really into the hiking thing and feeling really proud and strong. Even Daisy was doing much better on the wet parts having crossed them successfully once. Sarajoy settled and went to sleep in the pack once we had our snack break. We probably had about 1/3 of the way to go back to the car when Simon ran out of gas. He wasn't being hornery or fussy, just exhausted. He kept saying, "I just need to find a rock to sit down on." or, "My legs hurt." He would sort of collapse every few steps. I was feeling really bad for him, and I knew my body was beginning to wear out. I knew I needed to get out of there as quickly as possible, and the only way to carry him was in the baby backpack. I set him up on a big boulder and had him work his legs down into the hole. He is really much too big for this. His legs went far beyond the frame, and his head was at my shoulder. We were alone on the trail at this point, so we just had to work together to get him in right. I could tell he was so relieved and happy to be up there. He chattered away in my ear with his head resting on my shoulder. "Mom, you are so good at this! Your feet are doing a great job!". Awhile later, he noticed the braid on my shoulder. "Mom, this is very pretty! I like this! You are so cute!" Then he started to hear the rhythm of my walking in the gravel. "Mom! The rocks are singing I am A Child of God!" I think it is so great that that is the song that came to his mind when he began to feel a rhythm. We sang it for awhile. He also liked "Sally the Camel", and asked me a couple of times to sing the "song with the humps". We caught up with Dallin and helped him and Daisy through a horrible tantrum she was throwing because she needed to go potty and didn't want to go in the bushes. She finally agreed to go, and when it wasn't the cleanest experience she'd ever had she went into hysterics again. We finally got her calmed down and finished the walk back to the trailhead. Once she saw the parking lot, she ran for it. I was still slowly stumbling along with a very heavy Simon on my back. When we got to the road, I just couldn't take another step. I pulled off the backpack, and it was quite the feat pulling it off of his legs. We got back to the car and I sat there wondering, "Will I ever be able to stand up again?" I felt a lot like I had just given birth. It was a deep exhaustion and deep exhilaration.
We got back to camp, and our friends' potty tent had blown over. I guess that was the last straw for him because he had hooked up their trailer. We had intended to stay another day and tough it out, but it was obvious that wasn't going to happen. The wind really was quite horrible. As I was making lunch in the tent, great gusts would come and press the side of the tent against me. Then a fine layer of sand would come in through the top and settle on everything. Dallin put aside all of the bedding and brought the camp chairs in there so the kids could eat their hot dogs out of the wind. It was very hot in the tent. Brandon had heat exhaustion from the hike, and was miserable not having a cool place to rest. He finally crashed in the tent while we packed up our stuff. Complete exhaustion was settling in on me, and I was starting to feel really glad that we were going to be in our own bed that night. I was sad that we were not able to do the Sacrament meeting. I had plenty of moments of awe and reverence in the Canyon that day, so I hope it counts for something. It is truly amazing how beautiful and magnificent even somewhere like a desert wasteland can be.
Just before we left, I was looking for one of the bags to our camp chairs. I thought it had probably blown away. I went out into the desert and found a lonely cactus in full fuschia bloom. It was so lovely I had all of the kids come see. Some other things we saw were a funny-looking antelope that looked like a short-necked llama with horns. It was all alone. We saw some little lizards, and one bigger one on the road that would do funny push-up movements. Was it trying to scare us off? I don't know, but it was really funny. The scorpion found under our friends' bathroom mat was very exciting! There were these strange looking plants that looked just like the bulbous seaweed you find on the beach sometimes. I wondered if they are some relative evolved from a time that the area was covered in water. Most of the vegetation was completely foreign to me. There were very few insects. We saw a few gnats, and I saw one housefly. I guess we traded mosquitos and flies for sand and wind! There were crickets that sang all night. We saw a few that had hidden under bags or tarps. They were big.
I was a little sorry to leave that little cove that had been our home for a couple of days. I think we all learned and grew together with that experience. As much work as it was, I think it was as magical for my kids as camping was for me as a child. Now that I've initiated myself, I want to do it again soon. It helped us all be a little tougher, a little more grateful, a little more humble in the face of the majesty of those creations, a little more reliant on one another.